His store motto is "From my basement to yours: If you don't need it, I HAVE IT!!!" I wanna support him just for THAT!
I am like that.... far too much for my own health.
Excellent repair job there med6753, I have never thought about using IPA as a switch/contact cleaner before. Can you buy it already in a aerosol format or do you have transfer it into one of those squeezy bottles?
Nope, bought a MG Chemicals 945mL 99.9% IPA bottle from Amazon and poured some into a standard cleaner spray bottle. It works great!
24 hours on them with a full 4 hour run / stop 50% duty cycle. I’ve seen them pack in after a couple of days.
Usual failures in this cycle are the fan motor, primary filter caps, bridge rectifiers, random tants and the little wet tantalum cap near the bottom of the interface board.
Just wanted to pass on a smaller fleaBay find... this is apparently a fellow tinkerer who has hooked up with some local equipment scrappers to make some TEA money.
This fellow, member n2cbu has high ratings, lots of interesting stuff, and is not only willing to combine shipping, he has his storefront set up to automatically do so. This parts list has $24.49 worth of shipping by individual part; essentially a very reasonable $3.50-ish/item minimum. That all combined down to a Net shipping cost of $4.24.
His store motto is "From my basement to yours: If you don't need it, I HAVE IT!!!" I wanna support him just for THAT!
I bought 2 of the 100ohm 0.1% resistors and one 25-ct strip of the 5315ohm 0.1% resistors. I intend to put them all on a breadboard and make a ladder strip with double rows of 0.100" pins & jumpers so by putting in series or parallel I can make a very good, very cheap scalar resistance array that should have values pretty much in the middle of every range up to 500000 ohms.
Cheers,
mnem
*Pretty good at making bad decisions*I bought a few items from him and actually posted about it before. My items unfortunately came with issues which should have been noticeable before shipping. He also tends to remove the serial stickers from devices, which I really don't like. The response to the issues was adequate though, and communication and packaging is good. It's certainly not a scammer and he does seem to care about providing a good service.
Aluminum channel, great idea but i'm aiming for solid wood.
Yes, construction is important BUT trying to find a straight pine board is next to impossible. I'm looking at it in the light of the stabler the better because what i need is a pair of 90" beams supported for the first 26 inches then not at all. Thus allowing me to build what i want, IE heavy duty shelves above the work bench.
Besides the above points, who said i needed hardwood? It is more a matter of "What could look more impressive than a hardwood beam?". Personal preference really, but to use the pine which i have here i'd need to manufacture it from smaller boards which would work but i could also get a solid beam of whatever and some thinner boards to use as edge banding to match. Make it look better than a "whatever crap i got lying around" mentality.
EDIT; to ponder
I could get a beam of whatever looks pretty, pay to have it straight when i buy it and then finish it to reduce the ease of humidity changes.
Personally if it was my bench, regardless of what it was made out of, I'd definitely reduce the huge boat anchor loading on the top shelf. That in itself is either an accident waiting to happen when either stacking or removing any one of those boat anchors and also a possible hernia, slipped disc etc into the bargain lifting that kind of weight that height.
I would only be putting something like HP34401A's or similar up at that level, not just on the grounds of weight and personal safety on the times when you need to alter them around etc. but from a purely ergonomic view point. Also of course, things like that need to be at an easy to view level and your sitting at the bench they are not easy to view, they would and will as you get older become a point of severe aggravation, especially if you get a stiff neck from time to time.
Aluminum channel, great idea but i'm aiming for solid wood.
Yes, construction is important BUT trying to find a straight pine board is next to impossible. I'm looking at it in the light of the stabler the better because what i need is a pair of 90" beams supported for the first 26 inches then not at all. Thus allowing me to build what i want, IE heavy duty shelves above the work bench.
Besides the above points, who said i needed hardwood? It is more a matter of "What could look more impressive than a hardwood beam?". Personal preference really, but to use the pine which i have here i'd need to manufacture it from smaller boards which would work but i could also get a solid beam of whatever and some thinner boards to use as edge banding to match. Make it look better than a "whatever crap i got lying around" mentality.
EDIT; to ponder
I could get a beam of whatever looks pretty, pay to have it straight when i buy it and then finish it to reduce the ease of humidity changes.You can still buy 2x8s that are flat enough to make a tabletop and shelves at your local homeowner hell, for Ifni's sake. You just have to take a little time looking. Drop 3/8 masonite on top, or an acrylic floor thing for wheelie chairs and you're golden.
FFS, this a BENCH to WORK on... not the desk in the Oval Office.
mnem
That reality check just bounced.
I've been using IPA and Denatured Alcohol in a small spray bottle (depending on application) as my preferred contact cleaner since Ronald Reagan was just an old cowboy. For cleaning fascia and cabinetry, I'll switch between denatured alcohol and 50% rubbing alcohol; the combination of alcohol and water gets a lot of things alcohol alone won't, as some things are water-soluble but not alcohol-soluble.
Personally if it was my bench, regardless of what it was made out of, I'd definitely reduce the huge boat anchor loading on the top shelf. That in itself is either an accident waiting to happen when either stacking or removing any one of those boat anchors and also a possible hernia, slipped disc etc into the bargain lifting that kind of weight that height.
I would only be putting something like HP34401A's or similar up at that level, not just on the grounds of weight and personal safety on the times when you need to alter them around etc. but from a purely ergonomic view point. Also of course, things like that need to be at an easy to view level and your sitting at the bench they are not easy to view, they would and will as you get older become a point of severe aggravation, especially if you get a stiff neck from time to time.
I was actually thinking of having the beams be just shy of ceiling height so that for something like my tektronix 7704a i could make a mount to hold it at an angle facing down towards the workbench. Like Mr.Carlsons ceiling mounted scopes, for example. Besides that there is always the possibility of using the beams to give me a monitor mount or whatever else really. If all i was interested in was a shelf then i'd be fine with 60" posts.
ballantine? my old man drank their beer up until they stopped brewing the swill.
I want it, BUT...…….my hp counters might revolt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ballantine-Laboratories-Digital-Frequency-Counter-Model-5700A/183383140011?hash=item2ab27ca6ab:g:dEUAAOSwcWpbdfqG
Looking good
Just got the Heathkit AC voltmeter power supply finished of finally. Whole thing appears to work nicely now. Log amp works in it. Unfortunately it's got a big hole in the front panel where the old neon indicator was at the moment. Need a solution for that as I can't find any that are suitable. The usual supply of cheap ones has dried up. .... D83s on the fix list again now until I find a suitable indicator
Edit: Also have decided I'm on a major downsizing effort so I'm getting rid of a large amount of stuff still. I may actually get close to zero items. Plan is to get down to one PL supply, the DG1022Z, TDS210, FT-818, BM867S, Metcal and PC and that's it. I need to focus on some projects for a bit instead of collecting stuff that needs fixing. This is a temporary thing I assure you
Aluminum channel, great idea but i'm aiming for solid wood.
Yes, construction is important BUT trying to find a straight pine board is next to impossible. I'm looking at it in the light of the stabler the better because what i need is a pair of 90" beams supported for the first 26 inches then not at all. Thus allowing me to build what i want, IE heavy duty shelves above the work bench.
Besides the above points, who said i needed hardwood? It is more a matter of "What could look more impressive than a hardwood beam?". Personal preference really, but to use the pine which i have here i'd need to manufacture it from smaller boards which would work but i could also get a solid beam of whatever and some thinner boards to use as edge banding to match. Make it look better than a "whatever crap i got lying around" mentality.
EDIT; to ponder
I could get a beam of whatever looks pretty, pay to have it straight when i buy it and then finish it to reduce the ease of humidity changes.You can still buy 2x8s that are flat enough to make a tabletop and shelves at your local homeowner hell, for Ifni's sake. You just have to take a little time looking. Drop 3/8 masonite on top, or an acrylic floor thing for wheelie chairs and you're golden.
FFS, this a BENCH to WORK on... not the desk in the Oval Office.
mnem
That reality check just bounced.
The work surface is not an issue, i got that figured out with pine from homeowner hell. The issue is decent beams for the rear posts which are, shall we say, special use.
Aluminum channel, great idea but i'm aiming for solid wood.
Yes, construction is important BUT trying to find a straight pine board is next to impossible. I'm looking at it in the light of the stabler the better because what i need is a pair of 90" beams supported for the first 26 inches then not at all. Thus allowing me to build what i want, IE heavy duty shelves above the work bench.
Besides the above points, who said i needed hardwood? It is more a matter of "What could look more impressive than a hardwood beam?". Personal preference really, but to use the pine which i have here i'd need to manufacture it from smaller boards which would work but i could also get a solid beam of whatever and some thinner boards to use as edge banding to match. Make it look better than a "whatever crap i got lying around" mentality.
EDIT; to ponder
I could get a beam of whatever looks pretty, pay to have it straight when i buy it and then finish it to reduce the ease of humidity changes.You can still buy 2x8s that are flat enough to make a tabletop and shelves at your local homeowner hell, for Ifni's sake. You just have to take a little time looking. Drop 3/8 masonite on top, or an acrylic floor thing for wheelie chairs and you're golden.
FFS, this a BENCH to WORK on... not the desk in the Oval Office.
mnem
That reality check just bounced.
The work surface is not an issue, i got that figured out with pine from homeowner hell. The issue is decent beams for the rear posts which are, shall we say, special use.
I'd fuck up that pine in 30 seconds flat. My dining table has gashes and burn marks all over it
I've learned to work on cutting mats and cardboard cut out of boxes and use whatever surface is going.
ballantine? my old man drank their beer up until they stopped brewing the swill.
I want it, BUT...…….my hp counters might revolt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ballantine-Laboratories-Digital-Frequency-Counter-Model-5700A/183383140011?hash=item2ab27ca6ab:g:dEUAAOSwcWpbdfqG
LOL - that's sorely tempting. Must resist - I have too damned much stuff now!!
-Pat
Personally if it was my bench, regardless of what it was made out of, I'd definitely reduce the huge boat anchor loading on the top shelf. That in itself is either an accident waiting to happen when either stacking or removing any one of those boat anchors and also a possible hernia, slipped disc etc into the bargain lifting that kind of weight that height.
I would only be putting something like HP34401A's or similar up at that level, not just on the grounds of weight and personal safety on the times when you need to alter them around etc. but from a purely ergonomic view point. Also of course, things like that need to be at an easy to view level and your sitting at the bench they are not easy to view, they would and will as you get older become a point of severe aggravation, especially if you get a stiff neck from time to time.
I was actually thinking of having the beams be just shy of ceiling height so that for something like my tektronix 7704a i could make a mount to hold it at an angle facing down towards the workbench. Like Mr.Carlsons ceiling mounted scopes, for example. Besides that there is always the possibility of using the beams to give me a monitor mount or whatever else really. If all i was interested in was a shelf then i'd be fine with 60" posts.
That's fine, but I was actually referring to bench that URI has and the massive boat anchors he has above his head, I have shelves above my bench but they are not used for holding anything TEA related so I don't have to keep looking up all the time, I keep things like models etc on them. As you can from this photo, my stuff is all within my field of vision and below the lower monitor shelf of my desk/bench where the storage bin and NAS drives can be seen, now resides my Tektronic TDS210 scope and my larger Fluke PM3390B is to my left besides me which does not get used as much these days unless its extra oomph.
Are you serious?
Fir or pine 2x8's will hold up a effing HOUSE... full of people, all their crap AND furniture. They can damn well hold up a few hundred lbs of old test gear. If you're REALLY worried, screw two of them together for your uprights. Quick, cheap, and strong. When you're done building, drown it all in urethane and write it off your bucket list. Get some perspective, man. Stop overthinking and start BUILDING.
mnem
"Fire good, tree bad"... that's the level I'm operating on right now.