I got a request for more info on the HP8672 Sig Gen so I have to (am going to anyway) pull it back up onto the bench and play with it again. Anyone have an idea of signals I can generate to show it works well or not? DO I need the Spectrum Analuzer to see the signals or a basic scope will do? I have very little idea on how to use this bit of gear.
Google image search "HP8672". It's glorious! Just what the TEA crowd needs.
Wera makes good stuff. (I like Wiha, too - the yellow nutdriver to the left of the folding pouch is part of a Wiha set). My PZ1 driver missed the picture as it's in hiding somewhere.
And I happen to like pozidriv screws more than phillips.
-Pat
That WAS the plan. She wanted to retire this month. It isn't going to happen for another 3 years and I'll tell you why. It's due to greed. She's currently 62. She's severely diabetic and she requires injections of fast acting insulin and slow acting insulin. As may or may not know in the last few years the 2 drug companies that make insulin have decided to jack up the price of insulin to unreasonable levels. (Actually criminal levels IMHO) If she were to retire now her retirement medical would not cover that cost. (So much for "Obamacare". What a joke) She estimated she'd be bankrupt in a few months. So she has to wait until age 65 when Medicare kicks in and will pay for it.
Now doesn't that suck?
Yep, that sucks alright, but wasn't Obamacare torpedoed by resident chump?
Read the fine print!
https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.405.5725 <<<see page 368 - this applies to the UK too.
Clearly meant for H2 & H3 owners.
What the preferred fastener if you have the choice? Torx?
That WAS the plan. She wanted to retire this month. It isn't going to happen for another 3 years and I'll tell you why. It's due to greed. She's currently 62. She's severely diabetic and she requires injections of fast acting insulin and slow acting insulin. As may or may not know in the last few years the 2 drug companies that make insulin have decided to jack up the price of insulin to unreasonable levels. (Actually criminal levels IMHO) If she were to retire now her retirement medical would not cover that cost. (So much for "Obamacare". What a joke) She estimated she'd be bankrupt in a few months. So she has to wait until age 65 when Medicare kicks in and will pay for it.
Now doesn't that suck?
Yep, that sucks alright, but wasn't Obamacare torpedoed by resident chump?
Read the fine print!
https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.405.5725 <<<see page 368 - this applies to the UK too.
I read that and I must be a totally ignorant sod because I have no clue as to what in the holy hell they are talking about.
What the preferred fastener if you have the choice? Torx?
Rivots.
So I went through all the google pics of the 8672A and there is nothing but front-end shots and the occasional tear down, does that mean you want a tear down?
Took apart the 8568B RF section front panel to get to the attenuator. Remarkably easy, actually, except that when I reassembled it I forgot to plug in the little plug that powers and controls the attenuator.
Cue unstacking the display and taking it down once again to open it up...I got my workout tonight!
Anyway, I took apart the attenuator and examined it for signs of a major power excursion and could find none. I think it may in fact just be worn out and the contacts are not making good contact with the tiny resistive pads. Perhaps one of the solenoids is weak. A +15 dBm signal is capacitively coupling approximately -61 dBm through the attenuator from 0-30 dBm attenuation, and correct amplitude from 40-70 dBm attenuation.
Since I have no way to repair such a precision device, I am definitely going to need a new attenuator.
Rivots.
So I went through all the google pics of the 8672A and there is nothing but front-end shots and the occasional tear down, does that mean you want a tear down?
Well yes, but that's not because of the pictures but because tear downs are always a good thing.
Note that "HP8672" and "8672A" yield different results.
Took apart the 8568B RF section front panel to get to the attenuator. Remarkably easy, actually, except that when I reassembled it I forgot to plug in the little plug that powers and controls the attenuator. Cue unstacking the display and taking it down once again to open it up...I got my workout tonight!
Anyway, I took apart the attenuator and examined it for signs of a major power excursion and could find none. I think it may in fact just be worn out and the contacts are not making good contact with the tiny resistive pads. Perhaps one of the solenoids is weak. A +15 dBm signal is capacitively coupling approximately -61 dBm through the attenuator from 0-30 dBm attenuation, and correct amplitude from 40-70 dBm attenuation.
Since I have no way to repair such a precision device, I am definitely going to need a new attenuator.
SOOO pretty
***EDIT: I just checked my eBay page and I only have (66) people watching to see what I post...you all better get there! because if I can't leave the house this weekend due to my truck, I'll post everything left in a marathon of "clean, test, photo, edit, post"...and sometime I get nutty and have fun, at my own expense!
There's nothing wrong with looking pretty.
I lost my mind when I learned the difference between how a 6pt socket fits a normal bolt vs. the "standard 12pts that are commonly sold and used.
I lost
my mind waaaaay before that...
Wera makes good stuff. (I like Wiha, too - the yellow nutdriver to the left of the folding pouch is part of a Wiha set). My PZ1 driver missed the picture as it's in hiding somewhere.
And I happen to like pozidriv screws more than phillips.
-Pat
Yes, but you're a well-know wingnut.
And we love ya BECAUSE of it, not in spite of it.
And as for the Hummer...
-Pat
I'll be getting a new Pikachu on Sunday; but this one still has some humm left in it. Should I mail it over?
Took apart the 8568B RF section front panel to get to the attenuator. Remarkably easy, actually, except that when I reassembled it I forgot to plug in the little plug that powers and controls the attenuator. Cue unstacking the display and taking it down once again to open it up...I got my workout tonight!
Anyway, I took apart the attenuator and examined it for signs of a major power excursion and could find none. I think it may in fact just be worn out and the contacts are not making good contact with the tiny resistive pads. Perhaps one of the solenoids is weak. A +15 dBm signal is capacitively coupling approximately -61 dBm through the attenuator from 0-30 dBm attenuation, and correct amplitude from 40-70 dBm attenuation.
Since I have no way to repair such a precision device, I am definitely going to need a new attenuator.
I'm sorry for your pain... but if its any consolation, you'll get loads of thank-yous for posting that; to us it's the Miss January centerfold.
mnem
Take it off! take it ALL off!!!
Took apart the 8568B RF section front panel to get to the attenuator. Remarkably easy, actually, except that when I reassembled it I forgot to plug in the little plug that powers and controls the attenuator. Cue unstacking the display and taking it down once again to open it up...I got my workout tonight!
Anyway, I took apart the attenuator and examined it for signs of a major power excursion and could find none. I think it may in fact just be worn out and the contacts are not making good contact with the tiny resistive pads. Perhaps one of the solenoids is weak. A +15 dBm signal is capacitively coupling approximately -61 dBm through the attenuator from 0-30 dBm attenuation, and correct amplitude from 40-70 dBm attenuation.
Since I have no way to repair such a precision device, I am definitely going to need a new attenuator.
SOOO pretty
These attenuators are constructed like Swiss watches. Amazingly precise, with lots of tiny and fragile parts.
I'll be getting a new Pikachu on Sunday; but this one still has some humm left in it. Should I mail it over?
Ok, that was almost precient. On my way home today I passed a rotund compact car, which was bright yellow with a big midline black stripe from the hood to the haulage. I thought 'eeew Pikachu!' and now this!
As for the hummer.....
there is only ONE way to greet a HUMVEE driver when he is stuck in deep mud.
Drive up beside him, bend down to him, and ask politely whether he wants a tow-out or a load-up,
then break into a little chant:
U NI MOG! U NI MOG! U NI MOG!
Anyone else seen or have one of these. I picked it up for 0.25 at a local rummage store and I have grown to love it. The receiver is universal for all bit and the (it) also ratchets, or can be set to the center for additional toque. I can store tips inside the handle as well as the three traditional Phillips and Flathead sizes.
While I kind of like my IT, I absolutely must buy some professional EE hand tools.
@mnem, its strange but of all the fucked up screw heads I come across it's 9 times out of 10 going to be the philips where some numpty has gone at it with power tool on the wrong torque setting and the driver has been forced out of the indentation for it ripped the metal out of the head so the only option I have to gaining access to the insides of the gear is to drill out the remains of the head so I gain the access required
I find pozi drive and torx are that much more resistant in that dept.
IMO, Torx > hex > pozi > phillips; and flathead can go die in a fire. I don't even mind tamper resistant screws because I have all the right tools for those.
@mnem, its strange but of all the fucked up screw heads I come across it's 9 times out of 10 going to be the philips where some numpty has gone at it with power tool on the wrong torque setting and the driver has been forced out of the indentation for it ripped the metal out of the head so the only option I have to gaining access to the insides of the gear is to drill out the remains of the head so I gain the access required I find pozi drive and torx are that much more resistant in that dept.
That's because your "Philips" is either not manufactured to standard ( SHOCKING!!!
) of hardened steel, or it is in fact a PoziDrive that some mouth-breather stripped out with a Philips screwdriver.
If it is on Japanese gear (and motorcycles and automobiles) it is most likely because the same troglodyte (or his/her cousin) tried to use a Philips driver on a JIS screw; yet ANOTHER soft-steel Philips-oid fastener designed of in the same manner and for the same reasons as the Philips/PoziDrive debacle.
mnem
I'm looking at YOU, Yamaha!!!
Don't forget the Reed&Prince!
I also have a set that has the "special" screwheads that Apple invented to keep people out of their hardware...just in case.
its this one, Ill make sure its dialed in