Okay... so who here thought being unconscious would stop me from finishing that bracket?!?
Yeah, me neither...
I printed this up at 0.2mmLH, cranked the speed back up to the default 60mm/S, and turned off all the ironing, retrace, etc settings I'd been futzing around with trying to get that text to print. STILL took 8.5 hours due to 40% infill and 3mm thickness on all panels for screw-down-able strength.
I knew it wasn't gonna be pretty, but it is pretty firm. I can flex it in the middle, but it takes some considerable effort.
Pretty is as pretty does.
mnem
This time I really AM toddling off to ded.
I was [thought I was directly] replying to bd139 about his Racal 9915 vs mine. Long time reader, first time member. Maybe someday the threading mechanics of this forum will become apparent, but I won't hold my breath.
A quick answer to what test equipment interest I have can be had at http://web.jlw.com/test.html .
Quick check of your link credentials - APPROVED with gear to spare You seem to be deficient in the quantity of Multimeters so keep working on it
Not a pic to be seen. You can reply to someone by quoting them, as I have done here, or simply putting @jlw (member) ahead of your text. Not that we're all that picky, or snobby assholes who make snide coomets when greeted with a Hello and welcome, it just makes thing flow
Oh, I didn't list the 260s I'd killed, nor a little Micronta a friend gave me in college. I didn't mention the GPIB controller, either.
These days I can't be spending on TEA; the NTSC stuff and the flakey 3455A are a month old. Something to do instead of what I should be doing, though.
Oh, I didn't list the 260s I'd killed, nor a little Micronta a friend gave me in college. I didn't mention the GPIB controller, either.
These days I can't be spending on TEA; the NTSC stuff and the flakey 3455A are a month old. Something to do instead of what I should be doing, though.
$ to spend or spent don't matter more about on going commitment to the cause and that you have fun along the way
Take a peek in Metrology section if you are brave enough to look down that rabbit hole there really isn't a choice but to spend some $ and x10 for the next digit and x100 for the next ......
Oh, I didn't list the 260s I'd killed, nor a little Micronta a friend gave me in college. I didn't mention the GPIB controller, either.
These days I can't be spending on TEA; the NTSC stuff and the flakey 3455A are a month old. Something to do instead of what I should be doing, though.
$ to spend or spent don't matter more about on going commitment to the cause and that you have fun along the way
Take a peek in Metrology section if you are brave enough to look down that rabbit hole there really isn't a choice but to spend some $ and x10 for the next digit and x100 for the next ......
6 1/2 digits ought to be enough for anybody!
here's the 335D I scooped up. Its got a few issues that I have highlighted in the pics, but if these are the only problems, I am a happy camper. I already printed and saved th file for the knob_extension, and bought a handful of replacement LEDs for the front panel, from my last 335 repair. Still pretty stoked. If the Null meter section works, its big WIN.
6 1/2 digits ought to be enough for anybody!
It 'should be' but not if you want to calibrate or test your 6.5-7.5 digit gear to then apply to lower speeced gear with real certainty.
The reference I quoted a few posts back will be fine for 4.5 and up to 5.5 but that is about it. The biggest issue for most home users is getting an initial reference voltage if all their gear is out of current Cal. @Med's Siglent is only a new box so it will be close to if not inside spec so it is fine to test his other lower specked gear against currently but more certainty could be had by getting it calibrated. So transferring 'his' known voltage against what his other meters read has reasonable certainty for the time being but in a few years who knows what the Siglent is actually reading.
In my case I have some 6.5+ digit gear (AC & DC standards plus several 6.5 digit meters) so I am way into the rabbit hole so it is either 7.5 or 8.5 meter in current Cal to test against some time this year.
Oh, I didn't list the 260s I'd killed, nor a little Micronta a friend gave me in college. I didn't mention the GPIB controller, either.
These days I can't be spending on TEA; the NTSC stuff and the flakey 3455A are a month old. Something to do instead of what I should be doing, though.
$ to spend or spent don't matter more about on going commitment to the cause and that you have fun along the way
Take a peek in Metrology section if you are brave enough to look down that rabbit hole there really isn't a choice but to spend some $ and x10 for the next digit and x100 for the next ......
6 1/2 digits ought to be enough for anybody!
I disagree. I think we would all buy the 8.5 digit meters if we could. And hopefully someday we all can!
6 1/2 digits ought to be enough for anybody!
It 'should be' but not if you want to calibrate or test your 6.5-7.5 digit gear to then apply to lower speeced gear with real certainty.
The reference I quoted a few posts back will be fine for 4.5 and up to 5.5 but that is about it. The biggest issue for most home users is getting an initial reference voltage if all their gear is out of current Cal. @Med's Siglent is only a new box so it will be close to if not inside spec so it is fine to test his other lower specked gear against currently but more certainty could be had by getting it calibrated. So transferring 'his' known voltage against what his other meters read has reasonable certainty for the time being but in a few years who knows what the Siglent is actually reading.
In my case I have some 6.5+ digit gear (AC & DC standards plus several 6.5 digit meters) so I am way into the rabbit hole so it is either 7.5 or 8.5 meter in current Cal to test against some time this year.
I stated very clearly (somewhere
) that those references were only accurate enough to calibrate 3.5 and 4.5 digit DMM's. Once you get into 5.5 digit territory all bets are off.
I stated very clearly (somewhere ) that those references were only accurate enough to calibrate 3.5 and 4.5 digit DMM's. Once you get into 5.5 digit territory all bets are off.
Your ears burning when you should be sleeping
Have a glance at what I wrote re input impedance and check your references against low and high using the Siglent as you are effectively using them as transfer standards you did mention here somewhere you were getting discrepancy and that could be part of it between meters
6 1/2 digits ought to be enough for anybody!
It 'should be' but not if you want to calibrate or test your 6.5-7.5 digit gear to then apply to lower speeced gear with real certainty.
The reference I quoted a few posts back will be fine for 4.5 and up to 5.5 but that is about it. The biggest issue for most home users is getting an initial reference voltage if all their gear is out of current Cal. @Med's Siglent is only a new box so it will be close to if not inside spec so it is fine to test his other lower specked gear against currently but more certainty could be had by getting it calibrated. So transferring 'his' known voltage against what his other meters read has reasonable certainty for the time being but in a few years who knows what the Siglent is actually reading.
In my case I have some 6.5+ digit gear (AC & DC standards plus several 6.5 digit meters) so I am way into the rabbit hole so it is either 7.5 or 8.5 meter in current Cal to test against some time this year.
I stated very clearly (somewhere ) that those references were only accurate enough to calibrate 3.5 and 4.5 digit DMM's. Once you get into 5.5 digit territory all bets are off.
I guess my paraphrasing of Bill Gates was a little subtle there...
Fuck. I knew I should've gone to bed. Changed my mind about placement of the drive; now the part I had to trim off is visible from the front cavity.
Another one is already printing...
mnem
*Knocks self unconscious with a clock mallet*
I have sufficient issues with his Windoze platform so I try and avoid listening to him as well
Speaking of Ratios and dividers time to pull this hulk out of mothballs and put to a proper series of tests as it has been in the cupboard almost since I got it. It's about 200K across the box so very sensitive to impedance but time for a play tomorrow and see how accurate it really is.
I stated very clearly (somewhere ) that those references were only accurate enough to calibrate 3.5 and 4.5 digit DMM's. Once you get into 5.5 digit territory all bets are off.
Your ears burning when you should be sleeping
Have a glance at what I wrote re input impedance and check your references against low and high using the Siglent as you are effectively using them as transfer standards you did mention here somewhere you were getting discrepancy and that could be part of it between meters
Can't sleep tonight because of incident I mentioned earlier with my lady but I did find out from a co-worker that she was released from the ER and is home. I know her personality and she didn't want to talk with anyone and just go home and recover from her injuries. I'm sure she'll call me later today.
Anyway, I did notice a loading effect if you connected more than one DMM at a time to the references. So it's imperative to verify the output first with a known "good" DMM, then move the output to the DMM to be calibrated. Then go back and verify.
I have 2 4.5 digit DMM's that I trust as already accurate because I've never molested them and they match each other consistently. So those two are sort of a "reference". The Siglent obviously plays a role here too because it's new and it backs up my 4.5 digit references.
The arrangement ain't perfect and I don't claim it to be. But for a hobbyist like me is plenty good enough.
I also keep documented calibration records on how each DMM measures against my references. This is how I discovered that a Fluke 8600A was having drift issues and required repair.
As Tautech has gone Fishing interested if the Siglent defaults back to 10M or if it holds Gohms if you set it? The Agilent 34401A needs to be changed to GOhms each time you want it.
Great she is home too
Hospital is a good place to get sicker in.
As Tautech has gone Fishing interested if the Siglent defaults back to 10M or if it holds Gohms if you set it? The Agilent 34401A needs to be changed to GOhms each time you want it.
Great she is home too Hospital is a good place to get sicker in.
As I recall the Siglent is 10M default. I'd have to check the manual.
Nine hundred and seventy one pages... wow. I hadn't been in this thread for a while; didn't realize it was growing so fast.
Did any other thread in the forum break 1000 pages before? Or will this be the first?
Anyway, i just wanted to post this.
https://tapas.io/episode/1294038 https://tapas.io/episode/1310801A couple of pages of an online comic, that are amusingly relevant to this thread.
Now waiting to find out what's in that junkbox. Be warned, this comic updates pretty slowly.
... that are amusingly relevant to this thread.
Rings a bell.... (All three characters, in fact.)
We are a
lost cause lost and found support group with no hope and no real wish for redemption
Not sure if I have shown the inside of the ratio box before. Decided to get a head start on tomorrow over a Beer in the shack. Bobbins are the Trim resistors for the Mica Cards. Most 1-3
The main cards vary in number and wind and it seems that maybe one or two in the series may have an issue of suspect connections or shorts based on testing the resistances tonight so more investigation needed before I get angry with it at 1kV. Unlikely to be quality control type issues with the high resistances but
A quick answer to what test equipment interest I have can be had at http://web.jlw.com/test.html .
Which raises the questions "when did you get that non-stupid three letter domain name?" and "have you tried auctioning it to see how much money it could free up for you GAS?".
Not sure if I have shown the inside of the ratio box.
Very impressive unit , and very impressive results.
yippeeeh , the cold war comes back, let`s enjoy.