I did consider it
Video, not mine, for the uneducated on large capacitor fun:
That's looking really good, I never realised that you would have to wind your own toroids, would thought as a kit that they would be already wound for you?
That you did consider it is a given with you You certainly would not want to be too close to one those blowing off that's for sure, although I did think that one was a bit lame compared to those loony Russian electricians
Having been diagnosed with TEAS for about a year now, I have been making notes on some side effects or, if you will, manifestations of the syndrome. For example, at hamfests I spend an inordinate amount of time looking for large, bulky electrolytic capacitors, boxes full of meters, oscilloscope probe parts, test leads, and gray knobs of a certain size while ignoring all the radios and other gear intended to actually receive or transmit RF signals, unless to or from a piece of test equipment. I also seem to be inordinately fascinated with any sort of box that has a Tektronix, HP, or General Radio logo on it, especially if it probably doesn't work, obviously needs to be repaired, or has a sticky on it that says, make me an offer.
I dunno, is this weird?
It is indeed weird to look for bulky electrolytic capacitors of unknown provenance.
Progress. The cabinet has been cleaned and scrubbed with Simple Green and dish detergent with a hot water rinse and dry. It is ready for spray paint which will be tomorrow. I pulled the front face plate and gave it the same treatment, along with the knobs and hardware. The pots and controls got a healthy spray of dexoit. Here it is assembled minus the banana jacks. Need new ones...on order. That jagged hole on the left was someone installed a BNC jack. I will install that too. Also the CRT bezel needs to be polished and painted.
Compare this pix with the one earlier today. A massive improvement.
Already an amazing transformation!
If it were mine... I'd seal the front around that BNC hole with tape, fill in the holes with epoxy, then find/make myself a cal sticker or "interesting" asset tag to cover the ugly.
mnem
Carry on, wayward son!Cover up a bodge with another bodge? Surely you jest. Actually I plan on using the BNC. I even polished the jack so it's nice and shiny.
Techie post here with a video of the process here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/40w-300x200mm-laser-cutter-engraver-vollerun/msg2426109/#msg2426109
Just visible to the naked eye but not in a photo, subtle under flash so add some back lighting or front side engraved and make a statement?
Progress. The cabinet has been cleaned and scrubbed with Simple Green and dish detergent with a hot water rinse and dry. It is ready for spray paint which will be tomorrow. I pulled the front face plate and gave it the same treatment, along with the knobs and hardware. The pots and controls got a healthy spray of dexoit. Here it is assembled minus the banana jacks. Need new ones...on order. That jagged hole on the left was someone installed a BNC jack. I will install that too. Also the CRT bezel needs to be polished and painted.
Compare this pix with the one earlier today. A massive improvement.
Already an amazing transformation!
If it were mine... I'd seal the front around that BNC hole with tape, fill in the holes with epoxy, then find/make myself a cal sticker or "interesting" asset tag to cover the ugly.
mnem
Carry on, wayward son!Cover up a bodge with another bodge? Surely you jest. Actually I plan on using the BNC. I even polished the jack so it's nice and shiny.
The BNC was a bodge. It was haphazardly done, and is not period-correct. This is repair & restoration, which you're already engaged in.
I mean, sure... the correct way to fix that bodge would be to scan the front panel, make a scale silk-screen from that scan, then strip the front panel, TIG those holes shut, grind it all down inside & out, pattern-sand the inside so the swirl-marks approximate original appearance, then repaint it with the correct (and IIRC, highly toxic) self-etching epoxy paint, then finally re-silk-screen the legend. (Or search for the next decade for a donor unit to replace that panel )
I know how to do all these things.
But I am of the opinion that the equally valid restoration path is repair to original operating standards, done as non-invasively as possible to preserve as much of the original manufacture as possible. An epoxy patch done from the inside achieves that, while preserving the original paint and legend over 99% of the device.
But I get your POV... it's the same old argument with car people... on the one hand you have the "restorers"... who want the correct screws and bolts everywhere, numbers matching, bias-ply tires and the correct paint splashes on the coil springs that the vehicle came with from the factory. I know how to do THAT as well.
On the other hand you have the hot-rodders who want to take something old that's been driven into the ground and make it something COMPLETELY NEW... like CADDZILLA below. I REALLLY know how to do that.
And then you have the resto-rod people... who try to walk the fine line between those two; keep it as original as possible, while adding new stuff that doesn't require butchering the original vehicle.
The problem you're facing is that your project has already been butchered. The question now is whether you try and reverse that butchery as inconspicuously as possible with a little body work, or double down on the butchery and try to make it "a thing".
My personal opinion is that since this 'scope is pretty much useless as a 'scope even with the bodged-in BNC jack, it is primarily a shelf-queen. As such, the former course is more appropriate.
Cheers,
mnem
*Veteran of a thousandpsychic warscar projects*
(SNIP)
The problem you're facing is that your project has already been butchered. The question now is whether you try and reverse that butchery as inconspicuously as possible with a little body work, or double down on the butchery and try to make it "a thing".
My personal opinion is that since this 'scope is pretty much useless as a 'scope even with the bodged-in BNC jack, it is primarily a shelf-queen. As such, the former course is more appropriate.
Cheers,
mnem
*Veteran of a thousandpsychic warscar projects*Boy are you gonna have a shit fit later today when you find out what color I painted the case.
Or at least that's what I tell myself.
(SNIP) I dunno, is this weird?It is indeed weird to look for bulky electrolytic capacitors of unknown provenance.Weird it is, but I do have standards! I only buy new old stock. I buy from a list of caps I can use in various power supplies I am working on, and I am very very very cheap. I figure if I only a third of what I bring home is actually in usable condition, I am doing pretty well. Or at least that's what I tell myself.
Boy are you gonna have a shit fit later today when you find out what color I painted the case.Charlie-Foxtrot at will, good sir. I shall observe from a safe distance.
mnem
Yea this part of the song is starting to describe conditions here -
'Plenty of room at the Hotel California
Any time of year (any time of year) you can find it here"
If you can use them, I have these old B&K PR-24 direct/low capacity probes which would probably be suitable:
Just say the word & I'll drop 'em in the mail tooya; they've been languishing in the back of my toolbox long enough.
mnemAppreciate the offer. I have one of those old Heathkit scope probes buried somewhere.
I do not perform “restorations”. I repair and make functional. And if I decide I will modify and improve. My equipment is not museum pieces. It is meant to be used. (SNIP)
Oh and.....the BNC has been reinstalled too.
Used? For what? Pretty much anything you can use that boat anchor for (aside from a doorstop ) is better diag-ed by ear!
Techie post here with a video of the process here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/40w-300x200mm-laser-cutter-engraver-vollerun/msg2426109/#msg2426109
Just visible to the naked eye but not in a photo, subtle under flash so add some back lighting or front side engraved and make a statement?
So the case of the Heath OL-1 got a coat of blue paint rather than the original gray. Why? Because I felt like it. I wanted to match my other scopes. And in the late 1960's Heathkit did convert to a blue color scheme for some of their test equipment. And.....I felt like it.
...
Speaking of "What'll you use it for...?"
A question for you photography buffs:
I have one of these in THE BOX; IT'S 120VAC, 300W, HotShoe mount. I've kept it for years because every once in a rare while, I want to do some closeup photography against a backdrop, or some stationary video and the adjustable spot/fill is good for that.
Question is: Would anybody ELSE still use this antique, and would it sell for enough to be worth the time to list it?
So the case of the Heath OL-1 got a coat of blue paint rather than the original gray. Why? Because I felt like it. I wanted to match my other scopes. And in the late 1960's Heathkit did convert to a blue color scheme for some of their test equipment. And.....I felt like it.
...
Which mfg and paint color is that? How similar is it to "Tek blue"?
If you can use them, I have these old B&K PR-24 direct/low capacity probes which would probably be suitable:
Just say the word & I'll drop 'em in the mail tooya; they've been languishing in the back of my toolbox long enough.
mnemAppreciate the offer. I have one of those old Heathkit scope probes buried somewhere.
Anybody else want 'em? I just sorted my 'scope probes into a single bin, and they're already boxed up. Time for them to go.
So the case of the Heath OL-1 got a coat of blue paint rather than the original gray. Why? Because I felt like it. I wanted to match my other scopes. And in the late 1960's Heathkit did convert to a blue color scheme for some of their test equipment. And.....I felt like it.
...
Which mfg and paint color is that? How similar is it to "Tek blue"?
This.... And yes, it is a known acceptable substitute for genuine Tek blue. I have sprayed Tek cabinets with it and you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. And I like what Bd said....."HeathTek"