@tggzzz does your glider need a new coat of paint, by any chance..?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334075131905
Anything less than 50yo is glass fibre and not painted. Older than that is wood+glue+fabric, and that has designated paints.
In addition, since it one of those things that "floats, flys or f**ks", I only rent them rather than own them
Since one hour I'm looking for a website where I can check serial numbers for HP/Agilent/Keysight gear.
Anybody here, which can help me providing an URL? Thanks.
https://support.keysight.com/KeysightdCX/s/service-and-warranty-status?language=en_US
Only recent stuff however. My, made in 2013, 34461A is in there complete with expired warranties and dates, it doesn't even recognise the part numbers on older stuff.
HPAK serial numbers follow several schemes. The 'classic' HP scheme is YYWWC12345, like serial 2033A01234, a slightly disguised version of the serial number for my 6022A, which was made week 33 in 1960+20 = 1980, in America, and has a sequential serial of 01234.
Later serial numbers (post 2000? or Agilent and Keysight?) start with a country code US, MY (Malaysia), and I don't know the breakdown beyond that.
Your assessment of the 'classic' period S/Ns is close, but the first four (or 3 for 60s instruments) digits indicate the year and week of the revision the instrument is built to. The actual build date could be much later and is best determined by looking at date codes on stuff in the innards.
You're absolutely right. Worse still, I
knew that, but it somehow failed to make it to paper (well, bits and pixels).
After seeing something about the cobalt blue mug posted a while back, I added 'Tektronix mug' to my search on our favorite wallet-sucking site. One showed up last week and I jumped on it; it arrived today. It looks brand new, and was sent by someone who actually knows how to pack - it was overkill if anything - wrapped in soft foam surrounded by a custom cut roughly mug-shaped cardboard surround, then packed in bubble wrap and pillows in a roughly 9 x 11 x 6" (23 x 28 x 16 cm for you metric types) cardboard box. The moron who shipped those poor HP mugs that were destroyed in transit because they were sent in their tiny individual cartons sans any kind of padding should have THIS box shoved up their ass as punishment/a lesson.
-Pat
I would kill for one of those. Still havent found one, obviously my search skills suck.
It's a matter of patience and timing. I just put 'Tektronix Mug' in my evilbay search list, and look at what pops up in the daily e-mail. Usually they're the boring white ceramic ones, but occasionally one pops up. In this instance it took a few months, as the one that inspired my search was listed back in early May and now in July I've found it. There's currently a cool looking speckled blue ceramic one listed, but it's not worth anywhere near $50 to me so it will stay listed.
-Pat
I can't be bothered with pics at the moment, but the ER20 collet holder finally arrived. It was £17 including delivery from the Middle Kingdom and those little Chinese lads have excelled themselves this time. Anyone who knows the feeling of a precision nut and thread just smoothly sliding on a film of oil with no slop will know what I mean when I say I could feel how well made it was as soon as I took it out of the box.
So, the collet holder has been fitted to the drill press. One of the collets that came a week or so back fitted. A length of 8mm precision ground rod clamped in said collet and I've been at it with a dial indicator. The whole shebang now has a circular runout of ±6-7 microns (eyeballed off my 0.01mm dial indicator), so 12-14 in total and a world of difference from the 90 microns I measured with the old chuck in there.
I made a single trial hole in a bit of scrap Perspex with a 3mm jobber's drill and all went smoothly, nice crisp clean result. Anyone who's drilled Perspex will know that it can be a pig for chipping out slightly at the edges of holes if you've got too much runout.
Of course, as the grand scheme goes, now that I can actually drill round holes with some precision now I have to consider whether I need a set of reamers. (Who am I kidding, we can all hear the latent sound of my money flapping away on the breeze as I buy yet more tooling.)
You'll probably have to ransom them at the border. If somebody bothers to notify you.
mnem
There are no such borders between Italy and Germany. (if you manage to miss Switzerland, that is.) "Single Market", you know.
So all OK.
Not sure what I'm going to do with it though.
Who in here needs a reason beyond "It is test equipment"?
On that note I need some more furniture and there’s a 7704A project on eBay. I am considering it (no sniping me
)
On that note I need some more furniture and there’s a 7704A project on eBay. I am considering it (no sniping me )
No problem on that score from me.
Speaking of modular Tek scopes, I've found a manual for my 5440 project. Have asked seller if they will ship to Sweden; normally they will only ship inside Germany. I've found that once you write them in German, and are polite (Somewhat more collegial than "Sehr geehrte Herren" though, which is what my German teacher back in the 80s insisted had to set the scene for every DIN 5008 letter. We've moved on, at least on that bay of temptations..), most sellers will reconsider and offer shipping for reasonable money.
Yes, I know that there are pretty good scans on the BAMA and the Tek Wiki, but they all have the schematics unstitched. Which is to no end annoying.
With my Studer project, I'm spoilt for docs by having the original 3-ring binder with operations and service manual in two languages, German and English. It's made me a better fault-finder, even if there are several serious errors in the manual like one of the rail electrolytes on the master module turned the wrong way. That did not sound right; fortunately it was quickly found and corrected, both on the PCB and in the manual.
Anyone looking for a very inexpensive Lab PC ? I have an ASRock A 320 uATX board with a Celeron 4900 and 8 GB on board sitting here. Cooler included. 100€
need a case ? And a PSU ? Plus SSD ? 150 all in all. All stuff new or from the returns shelf except for the PSU. Offering here for first pick.
Speaking of modular Tek scopes, I've found a manual for my 5440 project. Have asked seller if they will ship to Sweden; normally they will only ship inside Germany. I've found that once you write them in German, and are polite (Somewhat more collegial than "Sehr geehrte Herren" though, which is what my German teacher back in the 80s insisted had to set the scene for every DIN 5008 letter. We've moved on, at least on that bay of temptations..), most sellers will reconsider and offer shipping for reasonable money.
Yes, I know that there are pretty good scans on the BAMA and the Tek Wiki, but they all have the schematics unstitched. Which is to no end annoying.
With my Studer project, I'm spoilt for docs by having the original 3-ring binder with operations and service manual in two languages, German and English. It's made me a better fault-finder, even if there are several serious errors in the manual like one of the rail electrolytes on the master module turned the wrong way. That did not sound right; fortunately it was quickly found and corrected, both on the PCB and in the manual.
I agree that scanned manuals can be a bother when it comes to the schematics and the scan of the fold out pages sometimes less than ideal and "unstitched" as you said. The best by far when it comes to scanned manuals is Artek Manuals. They take great pains to overlap the fold outs so everything flows easily. Plus they index the manual so you can find what you need quickly. Typically their softcopy PDF scans are $10 - $15 USD and I'll purchase one even if free, but crappy, scans are available.
The reason, why I was asking for checking HP/Agilent/Keysight serial numbers was:
I was offered a 34401A Agilent branded unit for around 350 Euro. The previous owner managed
to remove the serial number label while he was cleaning the unit. He was able to find the label in the bin and then he sent me a picture of it, so I was able to compare it with what I've found stored in the device (the numbers matched, so I'll consider it as a genuine unit).
Frontside:
Backside:
read out serial number:
Picture of the label the seller sent to me:
The VFD is a bit dim, so I'll replace it. In the bay are some offers from chinese sellers which are looking good and the feedback is also reputable. Once I've changed the display I'll send it together with my other 34401A to Keysight in Böblingen for calibration.
Speaking of modular Tek scopes, I've found a manual for my 5440 project. Have asked seller if they will ship to Sweden; normally they will only ship inside Germany. I've found that once you write them in German, and are polite (Somewhat more collegial than "Sehr geehrte Herren" though, which is what my German teacher back in the 80s insisted had to set the scene for every DIN 5008 letter. We've moved on, at least on that bay of temptations..), most sellers will reconsider and offer shipping for reasonable money.
Yes, I know that there are pretty good scans on the BAMA and the Tek Wiki, but they all have the schematics unstitched. Which is to no end annoying.
With my Studer project, I'm spoilt for docs by having the original 3-ring binder with operations and service manual in two languages, German and English. It's made me a better fault-finder, even if there are several serious errors in the manual like one of the rail electrolytes on the master module turned the wrong way. That did not sound right; fortunately it was quickly found and corrected, both on the PCB and in the manual.
I agree that scanned manuals can be a bother when it comes to the schematics and the scan of the fold out pages sometimes less than ideal and "unstitched" as you said. The best by far when it comes to scanned manuals is Artek Manuals. They take great pains to overlap the fold outs so everything flows easily. Plus they index the manual so you can find what you need quickly. Typically their softcopy PDF scans are $10 - $15 USD and I'll purchase one even if free, but crappy, scans are available.
I'll second med's comments regarding Artek. Dave's scans are second to none, and very inexpensive for what you get. That said, I too much prefer hardcopy versions with their fold-out schematics and the ease of flipping back and forth between pages, which is far easier than scrolling back and forth through multiple pages when they're a ways apart.
-Pat
@BU508A
Just be very careful when replacing the VFD on that 34401A, I seem recall a post in this thread, maybe about a year ago regarding the VFD displays on those, it seems IRRC that there are 2 versions, one of which is thought not replaceable and one that is, so it might be an idea to a search for that posting?
@BU508A
Just be very careful when replacing the VFD on that 34401A, I seem recall a post in this thread, maybe about a year ago regarding the VFD displays on those, it seems IRRC that there are 2 versions, one of which is thought not replaceable and one that is, so it might be an idea to a search for that posting?
There are three physical hardware versions on the front panel AFAIK and the early one suffers from complete failure resulting in the only option being replace the entire module. The Chinese displays aren't that good either I understand.
You can replace the entire module however directly from Keysight and save yourself a massive assache:
https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/34401-66522The insane thing is you can probably recoup half that back by selling the faded one to someone on ebay who wants to replace a completely buggered one
@BU508A
Just be very careful when replacing the VFD on that 34401A, I seem recall a post in this thread, maybe about a year ago regarding the VFD displays on those, it seems IRRC that there are 2 versions, one of which is thought not replaceable and one that is, so it might be an idea to a search for that posting?
Thanks Spec for the hint. I'm aware of this. The one to be careful about is from the very early HP branded 34401A with the input jacks all red. This one is an Agilent branded one, so I do not expect any issues here. I'll open it anyway to have a closer look to the usual suspects.
There are three physical hardware versions on the front panel AFAIK and the early one suffers from complete failure resulting in the only option being replace the entire module. The Chinese displays aren't that good either I understand.
You can replace the entire module however directly from Keysight and save yourself a massive assache: https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/34401-66522
The insane thing is you can probably recoup half that back by selling the faded one to someone on ebay who wants to replace a completely buggered one
I'm only aware of two versions. The first one with the leaky and unobtainium driver IC's and the next major revision which is unchanged to today to my knowledge. Those two versions are completely incompatible. If one is having an older unit with a broken display with those leaky driver IC's then you have lost. There is a thread here in the forum where someone replaced the display with an microcontroller and an OLED display IIRC. But this is a lot of work to do so.
Edit:
I thought, I'll give one of those sellers a try:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/372678311082https://www.ebay.com/itm/113493375735https://www.ebay.com/itm/372548711621
Let us know how it goes. I’m still in the market for a rough looking 34401A as a project