The "Screened Banana plug" (PL259)
I always thought the cap nut was only to restrain the banana from falling out as a result of the loose fit...
Just got an email from UPS that I hope does not presage headaches and frustration. It says I have a package coming, to a US address. It's the Fluke 27, and I really hope it's just some automated email notifying me it's arriving at a trans-shipping point, as the vendor definitely sent it to my home address, and I have paid accordingly.
Fingers, toes etc crossed...
Yeah, UPS announces delivery to the Erlanger, KY site where GSP restructures packages. You're better off with tracking at Pitney-Bowes.
Edited to add: Go to the
Parcel Tracker and punch in the Order Number or Parcel ID having selected the right category and you'll see the right data. You'll find the Parcel ID on your "purchase details" page in the Ebay account.
The "Screened Banana plug" (PL259)
I always thought the cap nut was only to restrain the banana from falling out as a result of the loose fit...
Apparently so. The 5/8" UNEF is used for a number of things, not only "UHF" and N connectors, but also as a degenerate microphone stand thread. In Europe, the standard is BSW 3/8", and rightly so, because that wont misthread all the time! Also, König & Meyer is the only company that can make a working mike stand. Full stop.
To make matters worse, it is also a quite common thread for things like silencers on firearms. (Where it makes sense, since one would want a very high TPI to not eat way too much material from the barrel) The results one gets when looking for tooling to make 5/8" UNEF are right out of the NRA porn section.
Just got an email from UPS that I hope does not presage headaches and frustration. It says I have a package coming, to a US address. It's the Fluke 27, and I really hope it's just some automated email notifying me it's arriving at a trans-shipping point, as the vendor definitely sent it to my home address, and I have paid accordingly.
Fingers, toes etc crossed...
I had one of those or similar recently when I got something from the USA. I think it ought to say "from" USA to you. I was a bit worried, but everything was fine.
No, he shouldn't. And it does us a disservice to suggest so.
Because people do not have infinite time and so have to concentrate. Which would result in having to watch jittery drawn-out videos instead of the captains well structured and concise posts.
I agree with you. I usually have to watch YT videos in 1.5x or 2x speed or I will literally climb inside the screen and gouge the eyes out of the presenter.
A picture says a thousand words.
A video consists of 30 pictures every second, yet contains 10,000x less information.
Progress. Not.
My longest YT video is 0:36 and I felt I was rambling in it
This may suit you: once you get past the intro, the rate of new-concepts-per-frame reaches epic proportions:
Enjoy!
You don't own a cat. They own you.
I never did understand the whole thing aboot getting mad at what happens to a "outdoors" cat. It is your choice when you first decide to let them out the door that they are no longer under your control; they might find someplace they like better and not come back, or they might be killed on the highway or by a predator, human or otherwise.
It's all on you.
Personally, being a lifelong anti-authoritarian, I find that kind of independent spirit appealing as opposed to the "I love you, I love you, kick me, beat me, I love you!" unconditional affection that is typical of canines. The very few dogs which have shown me that kind of independence were in fact my favorites.
mnem
Dogs come when you call them; cats take a message and "will get back to you".
Pssssst... replace them all with stainless steel hex-drive button head screws. Bring it into the 20th century, now that we're in the 21st.
mnem
*agitating-ily*
Since you're living in Canada, you mean stainless steel Robertson screws, right?
Absolutely
not! I find them viscerally offensive... like square-headed bolts and nuts.
They are just plain butt-ugleee!At least the US has settled on Philips as their LCD fastener type (but is fast taking up Torx as the "upgrade" or most common "better" type over Allen/Hex-drive)... it's like Canada totally devolved with slotted and Robertson as pretty much the
only fastener types aside from hex-head bolts.
mnem
*blerk and a half*
This Thurlby DSA511 is proving to be a bit of a challenge, not only are all the service manuals for it that I can find online, of extremely poor quality with poor scanning and poor resolution, but there is absolutely zero coverage of the front control panel, no layout or circuit schematic for it WTF!!!
I have asked in the repair section but again zero luck, so today I have just spoken to a nice person at TTi in Huntingdon, and they are going to look in their archives and will email me whatever they can find to help with the restoration, fingers crossed they come up with something.
Tool of the day
Plastic Razor Blade Scraper
useful for not damaging plastic surface or carve a glass bed when removing the 3d prints
I have a box of them, good quality glass filled ones, and I have a box of single sided razor blades, plus several holders for them. Half the time the plastic blades are just the tool for the job, but half the time I start out trying to scrape something with one of the plastic ones I end up going back and getting a steel single sided razor blade out to finish the job. The problem with the plastic blades is that above a certain level of force needed to get the job done the edge just isn't strong enough and deforms below the level of pressure required for the job in hand.
Definitely something to have in one's armoury but get a box of single sided razor blades at the same time.
I have a box of them, good quality glass filled ones, and I have a box of single sided razor blades, plus several holders for them. Half the time the plastic blades are just the tool for the job, but half the time I start out trying to scrape something with one of the plastic ones I end up going back and getting a steel single sided razor blade out to finish the job. The problem with the plastic blades is that above a certain level of force needed to get the job done the edge just isn't strong enough and deforms below the level of pressure required for the job in hand.
Definitely something to have in one's armoury but get a box of single sided razor blades at the same time.
And stupid me I discovered them now, and realize how much easier in would have been in the last 20 years....
Tool of the day
Plastic Razor Blade Scraper
useful for not damaging plastic surface or carve a glass bed when removing the 3d prints
I have a box of them, good quality glass filled ones, and I have a box of single sided razor blades, plus several holders for them. Half the time the plastic blades are just the tool for the job, but half the time I start out trying to scrape something with one of the plastic ones I end up going back and getting a steel single sided razor blade out to finish the job. The problem with the plastic blades is that above a certain level of force needed to get the job done the edge just isn't strong enough and deforms below the level of pressure required for the job in hand.
Definitely something to have in one's armoury but get a box of single sided razor blades at the same time.
Yebbutt remember... just because they're plastic doesn't mean they're harmless. The good ones
are still a effing sharp blade; I've learned respect for them the hard way a few times.
mnem
EDIT:
Also, Mr. Dragon, sir, I say forget Allen head screws. Few things are as frustrating as an Allen head fastener that starts rounding out. I ordered a nice variety of stainless metric Torx screws (and stainless Keps nuts) and I couldn't be happier. To each as own, I suppose.
I would amend that to SS Allen BUTTON HEAD screws - Allen Head Cap Screws are fine in my experience. I've used the button heads and for a given thread size the Allen is a size or two smaller than the ones in the cap screws and as a result much more likely to get buggered up. Don't get me wrong, they look nice, but for utility the taller, uglier cap screws are more robust tool-wise.
-Pat
I like 'em just fine in my 3DP and on my whirry little flying things, and they hold up just fine even flying crashing at 50KPH or more.
The heads rarely round out unless I'm trying to drive them with worn out drivers.
We're talking panels on a plucking TE for Ifni's sake... not bulkheads on a Star Destroyer.
Also, I'll direct your attention to the PS in my original post...
Pssssst... replace them all with stainless steel hex-drive button head screws. Bring it into the 20th century, now that we're in the 21st.
mnem
*agitating-ily*
mnem
*agitating-ily-errr...*
The problem, as always, isn't the application and the in-service forces on the fastener, the problem is how good the 200lb gorilla with the Allen wrench in its mitt is at not over torquing small fasteners. I have to plead guilty here, as at the M3 kind of size I'm quite capable of ripping the heads off of small machine screws if I don't dial myself back a notch before tightening them. I
am the argument for owning and using torque drivers for small fasteners. The single point contact design of Allen heads is fine at, say, M6 perhaps M8 and above but on those small fasteners there just isn't enough meat behind the single contact point to resist a properly hardened driver/wrench trying to shove the metal out of the way. If I'm too enthusiastic on tightening a small Allen screw it's always the socket that fails and rounds over, if I do the same on a Torx I strip the thread or rip the head off.
If I'm too enthusiastic on tightening a small Allen screw it's always the socket that fails and rounds over, if I do the same on a Torx I strip the thread or rip the head off.
As we say in German: "Nach ganz fest kommt ganz lose." (Beyond real fast comes real loose.)
If I'm too enthusiastic on tightening a small Allen screw it's always the socket that fails and rounds over, if I do the same on a Torx I strip the thread or rip the head off.
As we say in German: "Nach ganz fest kommt ganz lose." (Beyond real fast comes real loose.)
We know it as: "Tight" -> "Very tight" -> "Expensive"
EDIT:
Also, Mr. Dragon, sir, I say forget Allen head screws. Few things are as frustrating as an Allen head fastener that starts rounding out. I ordered a nice variety of stainless metric Torx screws (and stainless Keps nuts) and I couldn't be happier. To each as own, I suppose.
I would amend that to SS Allen BUTTON HEAD screws - Allen Head Cap Screws are fine in my experience. I've used the button heads and for a given thread size the Allen is a size or two smaller than the ones in the cap screws and as a result much more likely to get buggered up. Don't get me wrong, they look nice, but for utility the taller, uglier cap screws are more robust tool-wise.
-Pat
I like 'em just fine in my 3DP and on my whirry little flying things, and they hold up just fine even flying crashing at 50KPH or more.
The heads rarely round out unless I'm trying to drive them with worn out drivers.
We're talking panels on a plucking TE for Ifni's sake... not bulkheads on a Star Destroyer.
Also, I'll direct your attention to the PS in my original post...
Pssssst... replace them all with stainless steel hex-drive button head screws. Bring it into the 20th century, now that we're in the 21st.
mnem
*agitating-ily*
mnem
*agitating-ily-errr...*
The problem, as always, isn't the application and the in-service forces on the fastener, the problem is how good the 200lb gorilla with the Allen wrench in its mitt is at not over torquing small fasteners. I have to plead guilty here, as at the M3 kind of size I'm quite capable of ripping the heads off of small machine screws if I don't dial myself back a notch before tightening them. I am the argument for owning and using torque drivers for small fasteners. The single point contact design of Allen heads is fine at, say, M6 perhaps M8 and above but on those small fasteners there just isn't enough meat behind the single contact point to resist a properly hardened driver/wrench trying to shove the metal out of the way. If I'm too enthusiastic on tightening a small Allen screw it's always the socket that fails and rounds over, if I do the same on a Torx I strip the thread or rip the head off.
The big problem I have with Allen buttonheads is the global issue we all "conveniently ignore": especially with my "little whirry flying things", as they almost
all come directly from the lowest bidder factory in ShenZhen or GuangZhou...
...is the fact that you never know until you have them in hand whether they're going to be decent quality metal with properly forged hexes (on a button-head, if done correctly you can get 60-80% of optimal depth without weakening the screw shoulder) or cheapest possible with shallow hexes and made of case-hardened cheese or stainless cheese.
As for overtightening... yeah, my heli & quadcopter habits certainly did teach me to have respect for tiny screws. When you realize that your ~1kg 450-size heli hangs in the air from a single m2.5 screw through the main spur gear, it does make you stop & think
lest you overtighten and weaken the screw. Especially when you think about how much more the forces applied must be when you start throwing it around in acro flight.
Also, painful & expensive to have to replace critical flybar/head parts because you stripped out a screw head and can't get it out without drilling and destroying the part underneath.
EDIT: You do learn quick, as most of these are almost entirely made with m2 screws, as are pretty much any quadcopter that comes in under the 2 sticks rule.mnem
(screw-heads)
mnem
*blerk and a half*
Why do things half-assed? Bristol Spline, that's the way forward!