On topic, which is better for noobs like me? Cura or PrusaSlicer?
Cura has a machine profile for the Ender 3 already in it.
Well I did something REAL dumb this morning. Grabbed a terminal that had mains voltage (120V) on it. Luckily my finger tips are so callused that there was hardly a twinge and I even had time to say to myself "dumb ass!" before pulling away.
Well I did something REAL dumb this morning. Grabbed a terminal that had mains voltage (120V) on it. Luckily my finger tips are so callused that there was hardly a twinge and I even had time to say to myself "dumb ass!" before pulling away.
Got my hands on some 2 pF ceramic caps, so I gave the avalanche pulser another go, this time using Manhattan style construction. It works! There's still some optimizations to be done, such as getting some high quality 50 ohm resistors instead of paralleling a pair of 100 ohm resistors, and shortening leads some more. Then make it fit into a BNC project box. But, I'm happy with this prototype! [edit] yes, I'm aware that the 7A29 loses some bandwidth with the variable control engaged, but it was the only way to make it fit for a risetime measurement using the graticule.
Be aware that in order to use an impulse to measure risetime, you have to know the impulse's characteristics. Knowing that, you can use deconvolution to work out the scopes' impulse response.
If the pulse is much shorter than the scope's response time, then the scope shows the integration of the area under the impulse. That's the principle that we used in school physics lessons to measure charge with a current meter. There you rapidly discharge the capacitor into a slow acting ballistic galvanometer, and measure the needle's peak deflection which occurs around a second later.
Informally, and in a hand-waving fashion, your scope would show the same response to a 1ps 10V impulse and a 0.1ps 100V impulse.
If, however, you can add a transmission line stub to your impulse generator, then the resulting step will be helpful in measuring the scope's risetime.
I occasionally wonder about buying a ballistic galvanometer "for old time's sake". Then I come to my senses and realise it would be a poor use of floorspace and my time.
Got my hands on some 2 pF ceramic caps, so I gave the avalanche pulser another go, this time using Manhattan style construction. It works! There's still some optimizations to be done, such as getting some high quality 50 ohm resistors instead of paralleling a pair of 100 ohm resistors, and shortening leads some more. Then make it fit into a BNC project box. But, I'm happy with this prototype! [edit] yes, I'm aware that the 7A29 loses some bandwidth with the variable control engaged, but it was the only way to make it fit for a risetime measurement using the graticule.
Be aware that in order to use an impulse to measure risetime, you have to know the impulse's characteristics. Knowing that, you can use deconvolution to work out the scopes' impulse response.
If the pulse is much shorter than the scope's response time, then the scope shows the integration of the area under the impulse. That's the principle that we used in school physics lessons to measure charge with a current meter. There you rapidly discharge the capacitor into a slow acting ballistic galvanometer, and measure the needle's peak deflection which occurs around a second later.
Informally, and in a hand-waving fashion, your scope would show the same response to a 1ps 10V impulse and a 0.1ps 100V impulse.
If, however, you can add a transmission line stub to your impulse generator, then the resulting step will be helpful in measuring the scope's risetime.
I occasionally wonder about buying a ballistic galvanometer "for old time's sake". Then I come to my senses and realise it would be a poor use of floorspace and my time.
Are there any application notes that talk about this? Be interested to read more.
Ah yes the hybrid tube / transistor circuits of the early 60s. Quite a bit of fun those. Ooh hello Mr Transistor, let me see if you are hot. Bzzt. Ouch! Been there
YOUR decision to only use a service to print items and never own a printer and I assume never use the shared one you have access to is YOUR option. It follows that then in no way make you a competent or practiced user of a well setup 3D printer and reading some 'manual' doesn't make you practiced or more competent in your use of one.
A well setup printer with a tweaked profile or two makes it a walk up insert card and print not the fiddle you keep go on with. Your version of your truth has no basis in fact with modern printers and the truth but you tried to justify it with a narrow case of a shared one as evidence that is likely poorly maintained caked with crud in the nozzle etc.
So stop attempting to be both an expert at setting up and using a printer when you apparently have little to no experience in doing so while dumping on personal ownership and use of one.
It is clear that I don't own one (and therefore have not twiddled configs); until very recently the only one I had access to was a joke suitable only for demonstrating principle. Hence I have made zero pretence to be an expert, and I resent your false statement to that effect.
However, your phrase "A well setup printer with a tweaked profile or two" reveals that fettling is indeed required. The next question is how much fettling? There I have to rely on watching experienced users of the local machine, and the amount of fettling the have to do to ensure it makes acceptable prints - and it is non-trivial. I have also seen many anecdotes to the effect that users of other machines do recognise that fettling is an issue.
I'm happy that you have found a printer that is suitable for your purposes. It could never be useful for my purposes, since I have found it necessary to use four radically different materials: brass, PLA, nylon, SLA.
Now, while I dearly like my vintage scopes and use them daily, I wouldn't recommend them to an infrequent user that doesn't want to spend time keeping them working - because too much fettling time is required. Similar considerations apply to 3d printer.
YMMV, of course. And that's just fine.
I think we should have an old fashioned Victorian style fist fight