The 221 is much better than anything else I've ever tried. Wire-nuts are utter shit in comparison. I won't be going back. As a matter of fact, when I'm rewiring or redoing electricks, I remove all wire-nuts I can and replace with 221 clamps. At a considerable expense, but the results are definitely worth it.
What I can't fathom, is why otherwise apparently intelligent people will defend wire nuts just because they're what they know. With a wire nut the wire is held in place by the spring tension caused by the compression of annealed copper (this also applies to any screwed connection), in Wago and similar terminals it's held in place by the spring tension of a properly tempered steel. Young's modulus of annealed copper = 110GPa, Young's modulus of steel = 190-210 GPa. That ought to be Q.E.D. but no doubt the debate will carry on.
I'll suggest that you can easily make it a text-only document by bracketing your button labels thusly: [xyx KEY] or [xyx KEY]
This would make the "graphics" content of the original document pretty much a moot point, as long as you can easily tolerate that difference from what is familiar.
Right ... and when the usual suspects complain it isn't "authentic" like the original are you going to back me up?
Oh my, just found this. Same bench. Date on the back of December 1979.
The 221 is much better than anything else I've ever tried. Wire-nuts are utter shit in comparison. I won't be going back. As a matter of fact, when I'm rewiring or redoing electricks, I remove all wire-nuts I can and replace with 221 clamps. At a considerable expense, but the results are definitely worth it.
What I can't fathom, is why otherwise apparently intelligent people will defend wire nuts just because they're what they know. With a wire nut the wire is held in place by the spring tension caused by the compression of annealed copper (this also applies to any screwed connection), in Wago and similar terminals it's held in place by the spring tension of a properly tempered steel. Young's modulus of annealed copper = 110GPa, Young's modulus of steel = 190-210 GPa. That ought to be Q.E.D. but no doubt the debate will carry on.
I would be inclined to re-type it on the computer and print it on some laser printer sticker paper, laminate it with some clear book covering sticker sheet (Or get sticker paper with lamination sticker in the pack) and stick on a completely new set of instructions.
That way you aren't sealing in a ratty old bit of torn paper for evermore.
So to do this I'll have to find a serif font that looks close enough. Shouldn't be too hard. Only thing is there are some primitive graphics used consisting of a rectangle with text either above or below it centered with the sentence. Will have to work on how to do that - maybe insert an externally created graphic.
The "sticker" that Boonton made is not paper. It's some sort of very thin metallic sheet laminated with plastic on top. The metallic look isn't so obvious though, it's pretty muted, so that I think light gray paper could be used then the protective clear book covering.
There is such a thing as silver laser paper and silver laser sticker paper. However, many reviews say the text doesn't stick to it well, and I don't want a 50 pack of that just for a couple of prints. Also, I think it will look too flashy or "decorative" for this project. I don't feel like wasting $10 for something that won't work for this.
The first step is just to simply type in the text and get a working document. So let's see what I can come up with using light gray paper with a re-creation of the text and graphics. Hey can it be harder that making 3D buttons LOL ...
Gee I was 2 years and a month old !
Looked like even back then you were a fan of wooden dark brown furniture
Looks like you also quickly upped your game... scope on first / most recent picture shows a much fancier scope than the one on the oldest/second pic !
The real test would be to leave them both for ten years and then re-test the conductivity. That's the crucial thing here. Initial performance is oftimes a poor indicator of long term performance, as anyone with an 'ex' will tell you. In both cases the long term performance difference can be safety critical, electrical fire or "the incident with the carving knife".
I'll suggest that you can easily make it a text-only document by bracketing your button labels thusly: [xyx KEY] or [xyx KEY]
This would make the "graphics" content of the original document pretty much a moot point, as long as you can easily tolerate that difference from what is familiar.
Right ... and when the usual suspects complain it isn't "authentic" like the original are you going to back me up?
I like Wago connectors, but you're going to have a tough time convincing me me that the small points of contact they make are superior long term to a half inch of bare copper that's been twisted tightly together then further compressed and bonded by being screwed into a sharp-edged conical spring.
-Pat
The 221 is much better than anything else I've ever tried. Wire-nuts are utter shit in comparison. I won't be going back. As a matter of fact, when I'm rewiring or redoing electricks, I remove all wire-nuts I can and replace with 221 clamps. At a considerable expense, but the results are definitely worth it.
What I can't fathom, is why otherwise apparently intelligent people will defend wire nuts just because they're what they know. With a wire nut the wire is held in place by the spring tension caused by the compression of annealed copper (this also applies to any screwed connection), in Wago and similar terminals it's held in place by the spring tension of a properly tempered steel. Young's modulus of annealed copper = 110GPa, Young's modulus of steel = 190-210 GPa. That ought to be Q.E.D. but no doubt the debate will carry on.The spring compression in the WAGO clamp is considerably less than that which can be applied by a tapered thread in the case of the wire nut or by a screw. These means of applying pressure therefore can afford to lose some compression force over time, as they much more closely approach the level of compression applied by a properly crimped connection, which actually puts the material in a plastic state.
Add to that the fact that the WAGO only has one side of a round wire which can be considered "active" contact area, while the twisted wires/wirenut have much greater covalent area, and the fact that deformation of the copper results in even more such contact area, and I still believe in twisting/wirenutting as a viable connection for solid-core wire.
The problem here is actually a bit more complex than tapered threads on easily deformed copper tho...
The tapered threads on a wirenut aren't a rigid part; they are in fact a coil of square wire formed into a tapered thread. This is supported by the hard plastic shell to some extent, which also serves as a handle for tightening.
This means that the wire-nut actually does itself deform a bit as it is tightened, and it is is actually a compression spring wrapped around the joint axially. As long as it is tightened sufficiently, the thread-cutting action will ensure sufficient friction to prevent it backing off, and it will continue to act as a spring under some considerably high tension.
Again... these are all factors which rely on the competence of the user to achieve a reliable connection.
Where mixing solid-core and stranded-core wires are concerned... a whole different ball-game; there much care must be taken. Due to the tendency of stranded cable to roll on itself and work loose, I disagree with the older wisdom that a wire-nut on stranded/solid mixed conductors is a good connection. The nature of how a wirenut applies compression means it works best with only two or three conductors already twisted together such that they make a decent mechanical connection before the wirenut is applied.
Cheers,
mnem
*currently measuring the basement for a fresh coat of DOOM*
Japanese electrical is mostly crap, but it is only 100V, so what can go wrong?
I don't understand what the drama is about ...
I looked at your pic and I struggle to see what it is that you couldn't reproduce in seconds with any mid '90s word processor on a 486 CPU with Windows 3.1 ?!
The buttons are just rectangles, any word processor can draw basic shapes like this, which you can position pixel by pixel exactly where you want it to be.
The button caption is just a "text box" which is a graphical element and as such again, can be positioned accurately where ever you want.
It's only a few minutes job.. longest part is looking at all the fonts to find one that's good enough to your taste...
Japanese electrical is mostly crap, but it is only 100V, so what can go wrong?
I heard they have 220 and 110/100 at the same time. Two independent power grids to minimize the risk of power out in case of heart quake.
True or legend?
Yes, you can get more pressure with a wire nut or screw terminal than with a Wago. Then it will be over-tightened and damage the conductor. Wagos are designed to apply the correct amount of pressure.
I was sceptical about Wagos when I first saw them. Now I like them a lot, they are superior to wire nuts, screw terminals, and crimps in almost every way, to the point I use them by default now.
EDIT: Oh and btw, it is NOT correct to say the contact is on one side of the conductor only; the spring clamp and the seat are electrically connected.
Yes, you can get more pressure with a wire nut or screw terminal than with a Wago. Then it will be over-tightened and damage the conductor. Wagos are designed to apply the correct amount of pressure.
I was sceptical about Wagos when I first saw them. Now I like them a lot, they are superior to wire nuts, screw terminals, and crimps in almost every way, to the point I use them by default now.
EDIT: Oh and btw, it is NOT correct to say the contact is on one side of the conductor only; the spring clamp and the seat are electrically connected.
You say "damage" I say "deformation necessary to maximize covalent area".
Yes, the spring/seat are electrically connected... similarly, so are the jaws of an alligator clip. And I've seen enough alligator clips with the unsoldered side burned off and spring zorched inside to be leery of that statement as well.
There's a reason the ground clamps for a welder have a copper strap connecting the two jaws. Yes, I know the Wago has something similar... in principle. Again, leery of the whole thing.
I'll tell you what... When I die, I'll have my wife post the address of my grave in here so when I'm proven wrong y'all can come dance on it.
mnem
I seem to have won the relay battle by pounding the dissident voices into oblivion with a 25-page presentation.
So hermetic it will be...
And my NGRU was put to work for verification that they are really polarity insensitive.
The Blue one is polarised. That type has a small permanent magnet to make them more sensitive. It also means the drop out voltage is very low. I've tested 24V examples that held in down to 3V. You have to be careful of sneak paths when the drop out is that low.
I seem to have won the relay battle by pounding the dissident voices into oblivion with a 25-page presentation.
So hermetic it will be...
And my NGRU was put to work for verification that they are really polarity insensitive.
The Blue one is polarised. That type has a small permanent magnet to make them more sensitive. It also means the drop out voltage is very low. I've tested 24V examples that held in down to 3V. You have to be careful of sneak paths when the drop out is that low.
This I knew.
1.) it has the proper symbol for that
2.) I know those series.
Regarding the 'Relay battle', I was referring to the 'Centigrid' type (visible in the upper right), respectively a RF optimised variant of them.
I like Wago connectors, but you're going to have a tough time convincing me me that the small points of contact they make are superior long term to a half inch of bare copper that's been twisted tightly together then further compressed and bonded by being screwed into a sharp-edged conical spring.
-Pat
Problem is an unsafe main system works... until.... . So they sell homes with horrible stuff hidden in the walls... Everything works 100% and average Joe American can not see the risks... they got/pay the money and bye bye.
If trust Pat or menm when they have their twist nuts. (They will never use them outside to connect the AC conpressor units, without any IP68 protections enclosure, Wago 221 here will not help others Wago yes) They will never use them to connect a solid copper wire with stranded wire like for inside lights installations.
I will not believe how much shit the probably average Juan Pablito mexican electrician did in my US home.
Using Wago even average Juan Pablito with the very same brain could do a better job.
Some tools (like Wago) "push" the brains and hands in the right directions.
In other words it is harder to do an unsafe job in you use Wago instead of what you can buy at Home Depot.