This might be considered IEA, instead of TEA, but the lesson is the same, nonetheless. Beware of seemingly harmless $20 listings on eBay. 
I always look for "Fast n' Free" shipping.
An ebay seller just hand delivered a Fluke to me for £0. Fast and free FTW
This is a serious problem.
Just joining this forum has cost me a new scope and second hand power supply in the last two weeks already. Then I see this thread and the next thing I know I am suddenly the owner of a Fluke 8050A because it will stack nicely with my 8010A and 8600A. My inhibitions are gone about too many bits of kit.
This could end badly.
It could, but only if you stop.
Well it works. Nothing nasty living inside it and here it is next to my calibrated 8600A. That should read 10.002 as that's what my reference measures.
And I've got my eye on the next one already. My intention is to see if I can get to the ceiling in working 8000 series Flukes
That should read 10.002 as that's what my reference measures.
You need a new reference.
Well yes and no. It's a REF01A IC chucked in a box so the initial value after it has been aged is all that matters really. I'm more concerned about relative than absolutely accuracy anyway. I measured my reference with someone's HP3478A with 6.5 digit resolution which was calibrated from a real reference where they work therefore sidestepping the important bit: cost! So poor man's transfer standard
I would love a new reference though. Which is one reason I ended up here, reading threads on them.
Big thanks for that list. Many hours of fun in there
I've got an 8021, 8024 and 8010A not depicted above as well (you can just see the corner of the 8021 in the top right of the picture
)
Well yes and no. It's a REF01A IC chucked in a box so the initial value after it has been aged is all that matters really. I'm more concerned about relative than absolutely accuracy anyway. I measured my reference with someone's HP3478A with 6.5 digit resolution which was calibrated from a real reference where they work therefore sidestepping the important bit: cost! So poor man's transfer standard
How did you get a 6.5 digit reading from a HP 3478A? Did you mean another type, like 3457A? Or did you do averaging to improve resolution?
Just counted the digits on the label I wrote. It's 5.5.
I will go and flagellate myself with the idiot stick.
I just actually got outsniped on an 8000A
I just actually got outsniped on an 8000A
Then what a wonderful opportunity i have provided to you!
Update: I could only save 1 scope even though they were dumping buckets of CRT scopes. It was a Tek 2235. Since I already have a scope, and it would not be worth the $100 I could raise by selling it, so i will donate it to a friend who is into electronics and oscilloscope music.
I am disappointed that I could not save more scopes to sell for robotics club money, but at the same time I am glad that I saved 1 that can be put to education good use.
Every one counts, buck. At least they didn't all go to waste.
The snipers were out in force on both of them. Nothing all week then four bids in the last minute. 
Those "snipers" must be young ones. When you get half a dozen or more in the last three seconds, which causes the page to delay reloading at the close of the auction, then you've got snipers in your midst. Some items I've bid on doubled or more in price during such a shootout. Fortunately, it doesn't happen too often.
IMO sniping is the only way to go. It took a while to learn, but eventually I wised up. Others will dispute that, and that's fine. They can use their methods, and I'll use mine.
-Pat
Yes i usually plan with snipers in mind. But then i also snipe myself. Not as much to be too fast for others to react but so that i have no time to decide on raising my bid. When you get in to a bidding fight with someone as the last minutes tick down you will not think about if the price is still reasonable and keep offering more and more, in the end paying twice as much as you originally meant to spend.
That way i decide what a sensible price is beforehand and just stick with that. If i win it yay, if not then ah well wait for another one to show up. Because ebay bidding makes you win an item for slightly over what the 2nd highest bidder gave means that there is less benefit to sniping. Its not the typical bidding method that you see at real auctions. This is more like everyone submitting there entries of whats the highest they want to pay for it, so if you offer more than everyone else then you win. The current winning bid price is only there as a guide to let you see what sort of price range its going at so that you don't bid on something that's already going for a few grand and expecting to win it with your100 dollar bid. This system makes bidding just slightly higher than the higher bidder a bad strategy. Just bid the highest you are prepared to pay and leave it.
Yes ebay auctions can sometimes be incredible bargains if you are lucky, but a lot of times a item you want attracts the attention of too many other buyers with deeper pockets than you that fight the price up.
IMO sniping is the only way to go. It took a while to learn, but eventually I wised up. Others will dispute that, and that's fine. They can use their methods, and I'll use mine.
I'm with you, it makes no sense to do it any other way when there's a time limit. All it does is raise the price.
... so that i have no time to decide on raising my bid. When you get in to a bidding fight with someone as the last minutes tick down you will not think about if the price is still reasonable and keep offering more and more, in the end paying twice as much as you originally meant to spend.
This, too. There'll always be another multimeter.
The secrectary of my radio club is clearing out old gear, for a case of beer I got this lovely old HP Spec Analyzer
Thanks for the HP Journal reference - often a good read before tackling 'theory of operation' before serious repair .
He said it didn't power on - I will take covers off - check power cords, fuses, caps, transformer resistances and a good visual check over before powering up with an AC lab power supply.
Thanks for the HP Journal reference - often a good read before tackling 'theory of operation' before serious repair .
He said it didn't power on - I will take covers off - check power cords, fuses, caps, transformer resistances and a good visual check over before powering up with an AC lab power supply.
Sweet!! And do I see the manuals there in the background? If so, even better - saves trying to hunt them down! Congrats.
-Pat